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Page Title: Figure 6-2. Correct Hone Finish F10000RG-2
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TM5-4110-234-14
TO 40R7-5-7-1
(b) Anchor the block solidly for either vertical or horizontal honing. Use either a drill press or heavy-duty drill which
operates at approximately 250 to 450 rpm.
(c) Lower the hone into the cylinder until it protrudes 1/2 to 3/4 inch (1.27 to 1.91 cm) past the end of the cylinder.
Rotate the adjusting nut until the stones come in contact with the cylinder wall at the narrowest point.
(d) Turn the hone by hand. Loosen the adjusting nut until the hone can be turned.
(e) Connect drill to hone and start drill. Move the hone up and down in the cylinder approximately 40 cycles per minute.
Usually the bottom of the cylinder must be worked out first because it is smaller. Then when the cylinder takes a uniform
diameter, move the hone up and down all the way through the bore. Follow the hone manufacturer's recommendations for
wet or dry honing and oiling the hone.
(f) Check the diameter of the cylinder regularly during honing. A dial bore gage is the easiest method but a telescope
gage can be used. Check the size at six places in the bore; measure twice at the top, middle and bottom at 90 degree
angles.
(g) When the cylinder is approximately 0.002 inch (0.051 mm) within the desired bore, change to fine stones and finish
the bore. The finish should not be smooth but as shown in figure 6-2. The crosshatch formed by the scratching of the
stones should form an angle of 23 degrees. This can be achieved by moving the hone up and down in the cylinder about
40 cycles per minute.
(h) Clean the cylinder block thoroughly with soap, water and clean rags. A clean white rag should not be soiled by the
wall after cleaning is complete.
(i) Do not use solvent or gasoline since they wash the oil from the walls but leave the metal particles.
(j) Dry the crankcase and coat it with oil.
Figure 6-2. Correct Hone Finish F10000RG-2
6-3(6-4 blank)

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