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(3)
Removal.
tubes.
(8)  Heat and blow off excess solder from header.
Solder build-up in header openings may interfere with
CAUTION
tubes fitting into header.
Do not use too much heat. Excessive heat .may
(9)  Perform the required repair or replacement.
create new leaks
b.  Installation
(1)  Place header in position over tube ends.
(a)  Heat and blow solder away from edge of "V"
(2)  Use a tapping plate narrow enough to fit between
tank seam and pry loose while heated.
tubes. Tap the plate with a hammer while moving plate
(b)  Heat and wipe off excess solder from flange
alternately across header. Place measured stop blocks in
surfaces with wet cloth.
position and drive header down on tubes slowly and
evenly.
3-31.
Removing and Replacing Headers
(3)  Open all tube ends with a flat blade or screw-
driver.
CAUTION
(4)  Place header In a vertical upright position with
Do not attempt to remove header in one operation
tubes horizontal. Wash header and tube ends with flux
as damage to tubes may result.
solution.
(5)  Starting at top end, heat and flow solder on face
a.
Removal.
side (side through which tube ends protrude) until all tubes
are soldered.
(1)  With tanks removed (para 3-30) measure the
(6)  Check other side of header to make sure solder
distance between the top and bottom headers and make
flowed through space between tubes and header.
two stop blocks using 1" x 2" lumber cut to this measured
(7)  Install tanks and leak test with the required air
distance.
pressure.
(2)  Starting at one end, heat the header on the face
side (side through which tubes ends protrude) until solder
3-32.
Removing and Replacing Tubes
is molten. Proceed until entire head is free.
a.  General. When a tube has several leaks, shows
(3)  Remove excess solder with a wire brush.
damage or deterioration, it is usually replaced.  With
(4)  Insert a rod 1/4"x 18" or similar device between
corrugated fin type tubular radiators it is common practice
first and second row of tubes from one end.
to replace tubes when necessary.
The tubes of
(5)  Heat header and using a ball peen hammer to
continuous fin types are difficult to remove and are seldom
gently tap side of rod near each side of header.  Tap
replaced.  However, they may be spliced with short
gently while heating until this portion of header breaks
sections of replacement tube stock (para 3-33). Tubes
loose from tubes. After this small portion Is broken loose,
can be replaced while the tanks are attached.
insert rod in next row, etc, and repeat procedure until
header is free.
b.
Removal
(6)  Tap header lightly along entire length until header
comes off. Figure 3-17 shows a header being removed.
CAUTION
Apply heat to tube and not the fins.  If fins are
overheated they will melt and stick to tube.
(1)  Remove tube ends first. Heat tube at header end
and raise adjacent fins by 1/2 inch. This allows access to
the working area. Heat tube at the header and melt the
solder bond in header.
(2)  Twist tube end out of header by gripping with
needle nose pliers.
(3)  Repeat preceding step and remove opposite tube
end. Double check to be sure that both ends of same tube
are being removed.
Figure 3-17. Header being removed.
(4)  Heat tube from one end to the other while
working it up and down.
(7)  Clean and tin header openings and tube ends
(5)  Grip tube with needle nose pliers and jiggle
with tinning mixture and flux. When tinning tubes, place
tubes in vertical position with tinned ends pointing upward.
This prevents solder droplets from forming on sides of
3-14

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